Training to fight attack dogs is an important part of combat martial arts. Additionally loose, wild, or diseased dogs may be a threat anywhere in the world. This post is on how to fight dogs, and how we train to survive dog attacks.➷
Understand Dog Language: Dogs communicate their intent both vocally and through body language. When you come across an aggressive animal of any kind it helps to be able understand it's language. Recognizing aggression can be easy with lots of clues, or it can be very subtle.
Avoid or deescalate violence before an attack, when possible.
Avoid or deescalate violence before an attack, when possible.
YANG AGGRESSION | YIN AGGRESSION |
| Recognizing the 8 types of aggression can help you choose the right way in which to resolve conflict. It's important to note that not all these signs are always present. Dogs may also be opposite, such as low ears or tails even when they're Yang. |  |
Predatory Aggression: Predatory aggression comes from a dogs natural instinct to hunt. This instinct is what is harnessed in Attack Dogs. Attack Dogs like police and military dogs are not necessarily protecting the officer, or a familiar space. To them you are prey and the officers are their pack. Attack Dogs can be trained just to hold you down, or to kill you.
When dogs attack joggers and cyclists it's usually because the fast movement has triggered their predatory instinct.
Protective & Possessive Aggression: Protective Aggression is a dogs instinct to protect it's pack/owners. If you get in a fight with a dog owner there is a good chance the dog will get involved if present. This is why a dog makes a good self defense ally, even if they have no training. However if someone pulls a weapon on you the dog will probably not recognize the threat. That's why a dog trained to attack anyone on command makes a far greater ally.
Protection instinct can suddenly manifest as a problem when a new baby or pet is introduced to the family, as dogs may be overly defensive of those it sees as weak or vulnerable.
Possessive Aggression is the defense of food or objects the dog covets. These can sometimes not make sense, like a lawnmower or chair. Sometimes its just that the dog knows you want it, so it must be of value.
Social Aggression: A dog who perceives themselves as high in rank status may show aggression toward its own pack members. This communication is part of how pecking orders are established in most all social animals, including humans.
Frustration-Elicited Aggression: A dog who’s excited or aroused by something but is held back from approaching it can become aggressive. This is why dogs can be more aggressive on leash or behind a fence.
Redirected Aggression: Redirected aggression occurs when a dog is aroused by, or displays aggression toward a person or animal, and then something else interferes. Trying to break up a dog fight, or help someone who's being attacked, can quickly make you the focus of the dogs vicious intent.
Pain-Elicited Aggression: Even a friendly dog can become aggressive when in pain. When fighting a dog, the pain of your attacks can initiate an even greater attack from the dog.
Sex-Related Aggression: Male dogs who have not been castrated will fight for the ability to mate. They can become aggressive as they vie for the attention of females in heat. Females too will compete for access to a male.
Territorial Aggression: Dog's will fight to defend their territory. This instinct is both natural and cultivated in Guard Dogs, these dogs will attack on their own if their area is infiltrated, as opposed to Attack Dogs who are on the hunt.
When dogs attack joggers and cyclists it's usually because the fast movement has triggered their predatory instinct.
Protective & Possessive Aggression: Protective Aggression is a dogs instinct to protect it's pack/owners. If you get in a fight with a dog owner there is a good chance the dog will get involved if present. This is why a dog makes a good self defense ally, even if they have no training. However if someone pulls a weapon on you the dog will probably not recognize the threat. That's why a dog trained to attack anyone on command makes a far greater ally.
Protection instinct can suddenly manifest as a problem when a new baby or pet is introduced to the family, as dogs may be overly defensive of those it sees as weak or vulnerable.
Possessive Aggression is the defense of food or objects the dog covets. These can sometimes not make sense, like a lawnmower or chair. Sometimes its just that the dog knows you want it, so it must be of value.
Social Aggression: A dog who perceives themselves as high in rank status may show aggression toward its own pack members. This communication is part of how pecking orders are established in most all social animals, including humans.
Frustration-Elicited Aggression: A dog who’s excited or aroused by something but is held back from approaching it can become aggressive. This is why dogs can be more aggressive on leash or behind a fence.
Redirected Aggression: Redirected aggression occurs when a dog is aroused by, or displays aggression toward a person or animal, and then something else interferes. Trying to break up a dog fight, or help someone who's being attacked, can quickly make you the focus of the dogs vicious intent.
Pain-Elicited Aggression: Even a friendly dog can become aggressive when in pain. When fighting a dog, the pain of your attacks can initiate an even greater attack from the dog.
Sex-Related Aggression: Male dogs who have not been castrated will fight for the ability to mate. They can become aggressive as they vie for the attention of females in heat. Females too will compete for access to a male.
Territorial Aggression: Dog's will fight to defend their territory. This instinct is both natural and cultivated in Guard Dogs, these dogs will attack on their own if their area is infiltrated, as opposed to Attack Dogs who are on the hunt.
BEFORE THE FIGHT
 | #1. Arm & Prepare: You don't want to have to fight a dog bare handed. Guns, pepper spray, tasers, and knives are best, or any long weapon like a spear. Dogs are able to take a lot of blunt force without ending their attack. |
#2. Have a bag or jacket: Untrained dogs will often latch onto clothing or bags, when a dog attacks you try to get the dog to bite onto something other than yourself.
#3. Tie on a jacket: A dog can attack quickly from out of nowhere, especially if your running. Tie a jacket or sweater loosely around your waist and let it trail behind you. Dogs will often attack this first giving you a chance to fight back.
#4 Recognize the Signs: Look for signs a dog may be present both in yards and in the wild, obvious signs can be tracks, scat, or even dog bowls and toys.
#3. Tie on a jacket: A dog can attack quickly from out of nowhere, especially if your running. Tie a jacket or sweater loosely around your waist and let it trail behind you. Dogs will often attack this first giving you a chance to fight back.
#4 Recognize the Signs: Look for signs a dog may be present both in yards and in the wild, obvious signs can be tracks, scat, or even dog bowls and toys.
WHEN APPROACHED
 | When your confronted by an aggressive dog who hasn't committed to attack yet, how you respond can change the outcome of the encounter. Remember the following 5 steps, they can save your life. |
#1 Stay Calm: Avoid sudden movements. Do Not Run! Don't start yelling, waiving your arms, or kicking. Don’t give in to fear, dogs want their prey to run or be stressed before they attack. If you remain calm and in control, it slows them down, makes them more cautious, and can make you look like less appealing prey.
#2 Avoid Direct Eye Contact: Look at the dog peripherally, direct eye contact is a threat, and a challenge that can cause the dog to attack.
#3 Prepare To Fight: Stand slightly sideways to minimize available targets, if you have a bag bring it slightly forward, if not bring your forearm forward (keep your forward hand in a fist to help protect the fingers), and slowly draw your weapon with your rear hand.
#4 Make an Offering: If you have anything on you like a water bottle, ball, toy, hat etc. You can try throwing the object, not at the dog, but a few feet in front of it, on an angle. Sometimes this will switch the dogs focus and cause him to inspect your offering, giving you time to slowly back away.
#5 Take Space: If the dog calms down, slowly start to make yourself appear bigger, extend your bag and take a little more space. In dog language this says "I don’t want your space, I just want the space I am in.”
Maintain this calm and assertive state; this may earn the dog’s respect by letting it know that you are not afraid. When a dog senses that you aren’t threatening it, and that you are not threatened by it, it might lose interest.
If this doesn't work and the dog attacks, you must fight for your life, a dog won't stop if you play dead.
#2 Avoid Direct Eye Contact: Look at the dog peripherally, direct eye contact is a threat, and a challenge that can cause the dog to attack.
#3 Prepare To Fight: Stand slightly sideways to minimize available targets, if you have a bag bring it slightly forward, if not bring your forearm forward (keep your forward hand in a fist to help protect the fingers), and slowly draw your weapon with your rear hand.
#4 Make an Offering: If you have anything on you like a water bottle, ball, toy, hat etc. You can try throwing the object, not at the dog, but a few feet in front of it, on an angle. Sometimes this will switch the dogs focus and cause him to inspect your offering, giving you time to slowly back away.
#5 Take Space: If the dog calms down, slowly start to make yourself appear bigger, extend your bag and take a little more space. In dog language this says "I don’t want your space, I just want the space I am in.”
Maintain this calm and assertive state; this may earn the dog’s respect by letting it know that you are not afraid. When a dog senses that you aren’t threatening it, and that you are not threatened by it, it might lose interest.
If this doesn't work and the dog attacks, you must fight for your life, a dog won't stop if you play dead.
HOW TO FIGHT A DOG
Make no mistake, one bite from a dog can kill. This picture is a single dog bite. Dogs have one weapon, their mouths. At Imperial Combat Arts preparing to fight weaponized or rouge dogs is an important part of real martial study.
#1 Long Range: First if possible attack with your ranged weapons, your pistol or pepper spray. If the dog gets to you anyway follow the next step.
#2 Sacrifice and Fight: Try to get the dog to bite first onto a bag or jacket if you have it. If you don't have anything or if it does'nt fall for the trap, sacrifice your forearm or shin. Remember to keep your captured hand in a fist if you can. You'll bleed out much faster if the dog gets higher up on the limbs. Once you see blood like in the video, the clock is ticking.
You must stay conscious and have a working hand to win. Your martial training may help you remain functional through the shock and pain.
A dog has one weapon you have two arms. Either attack with your pistol, use your spray to the eyes, knife attacks to throat, or stab for the heart.
Remember blunt force is not as effective, but can work, the top of the head is hard so aim for the nose or the back of the head where the spine and the skull meet.
#3 Types of Bites: Some dogs will latch on, pull and shake, others will bite, release, bite, release, to different spots over and over. Try to stay standing, it keeps your neck further away. As you exchange blows keep your sacrificial arm the dogs target, and protect your vital points at all cost.
#4 Unarmed Fight: If you are not armed. Attack the nose and back of the head the best you can. You can try to ground the dog and drop your knees hard onto the dogs ribs to crush them, or try to grapple and isolate their mouth, holding them until help arrives.
If the dog is a latch-on-and-tug fighter, you can sometimes pick the dog up off the ground with your free hand. This can take away his ability to use his weight against you. This can minimize tugging damage and allow you to walk for help with the dog in your arms.
Be careful not to bring the dogs mouth close to your throat or face.
Video Breakdown:
Since the dog was so committed to forearm, the man in the video, could have stood (if he had the strength), picked up the dog to negate the pulling, and walked to a weapon.
Remember while the initial attack may be fast and hard to target with your weapon, the pulling and tearing often looks like the video. This may be your only opportunity to kill the dog. The man in the video likely lacked the strength or training to hurt this dog with an empty handed strike.
#5 Win/Lose: If you lose then don't worry, your troubles are over. If you win, follow your battlefield first aid protocols to stop any bleeding, and seek medical help if needed. Any bite warrants examination and vaccination.
#2 Sacrifice and Fight: Try to get the dog to bite first onto a bag or jacket if you have it. If you don't have anything or if it does'nt fall for the trap, sacrifice your forearm or shin. Remember to keep your captured hand in a fist if you can. You'll bleed out much faster if the dog gets higher up on the limbs. Once you see blood like in the video, the clock is ticking.
You must stay conscious and have a working hand to win. Your martial training may help you remain functional through the shock and pain.
A dog has one weapon you have two arms. Either attack with your pistol, use your spray to the eyes, knife attacks to throat, or stab for the heart.
Remember blunt force is not as effective, but can work, the top of the head is hard so aim for the nose or the back of the head where the spine and the skull meet.
#3 Types of Bites: Some dogs will latch on, pull and shake, others will bite, release, bite, release, to different spots over and over. Try to stay standing, it keeps your neck further away. As you exchange blows keep your sacrificial arm the dogs target, and protect your vital points at all cost.
#4 Unarmed Fight: If you are not armed. Attack the nose and back of the head the best you can. You can try to ground the dog and drop your knees hard onto the dogs ribs to crush them, or try to grapple and isolate their mouth, holding them until help arrives.
If the dog is a latch-on-and-tug fighter, you can sometimes pick the dog up off the ground with your free hand. This can take away his ability to use his weight against you. This can minimize tugging damage and allow you to walk for help with the dog in your arms.
Be careful not to bring the dogs mouth close to your throat or face.
Video Breakdown:
Since the dog was so committed to forearm, the man in the video, could have stood (if he had the strength), picked up the dog to negate the pulling, and walked to a weapon.
Remember while the initial attack may be fast and hard to target with your weapon, the pulling and tearing often looks like the video. This may be your only opportunity to kill the dog. The man in the video likely lacked the strength or training to hurt this dog with an empty handed strike.
#5 Win/Lose: If you lose then don't worry, your troubles are over. If you win, follow your battlefield first aid protocols to stop any bleeding, and seek medical help if needed. Any bite warrants examination and vaccination.
ADVANCED DOG FIGHTING
Advanced training includes:
- Grappling postures, positions, holds and locks for grappling dogs. This is trained at the school on real dogs, in a dog friendly way.
- Using your toughened hand weapons and strikes on dogs.
- How to engage and fight multiple dogs, and read a pack.
- How to fight dogs and their owners.
- The use of specialized and improvised weapons against dogs.
- Online testing, training at the school, and shooting at the range.
I hope you enjoyed this post and learned something that may save your life one day! Later I'll publish posts on how to break up dog fights, come to the aid of others, and how buy a good protection dog of your own. Leave your comments below! Subscribe your email, if you haven't already, to receive notifications when there are news posts.
Author
High Master Mang Taan began training martial arts full time in 1999 at the age of 19, and now in 2018 has logged over 30,000 hours of combat training in his career. High Master Mang Taan holds Master ranks in several martial arts and weapons systems, as well as being a firearms and survival expert. High Master Mang Taan teaches at Imperial Combat Arts 28 hours each week and works part time as a surgical assistant.
